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LE JOURNAL arrow LE JOURNAL arrow Santé arrow Qu’est-ce qu’on demande à une bonne eau micellaire ?




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01-03-2011

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Qu'est-ce qu'on demande à une bonne eau micellaire ?

Une eau micellaire est une émulsion huile dans eau, composée de plusieurs tensioactifs (agents nettoyants) qui s'assemblent pour former de petits ballons, appelés micelles. Les plus doux, comme ceux dérivés de l'huile de coprah, ont un pouvoir démaquillant plus faible. En version bio, les tensioactifs sont d'origine végétale, souvent des dérivés de sucres.

– Des agents hydratants
La glycérine ou l'alose vera, qui respectent l'équilibre de la peau, permettent un nettoyage sans tiraillements.
– Des agents traitants
Comme le zinc aux propriétés anti-inflammatoires pour les peaux grasses ou mixtes, ou le bleuet sous forme d'eau florale pour apaiser les peaux sèches ou les yeux sensibles.

– Et aussi…
– Du parfum, mais le moins possible, car l'eau micellaire est destinée en premier lieu aux peaux sensibles, qui peuvent être allergiques.
– Du disodium EDTA qui piège certaines molécules du maquillage et de la pollution, pour que les tensioactifs jouent parfaitement leur rôle de nettoyants.
– De l'acide citrique, synthétique ou naturel, qui rend le pH du produit plus proche de celui de la peau pour une meilleure tolérance.

Ce qu'il faut surveiller
– Les conservateurs générateurs de formaldéhyde.
Le formaldéhyde est un conservateur très allergène. Il est connu sous d'autres appellations : formol, for-mic aldéhyde, paraform, méthanal, methyl aldehyde, oxomethane… La mention " contient du formaldéhyde " doit d'ailleurs obligatoirement figurer sur l'étiquette.
– La présence d'alcool
Assez rare, puisqu'il s'agit en principe de démaquillants doux, mais que l'on peut cependant retrouver dans certaines eaux micellaires pour les peaux à tendance acnéique.

Ce qu'on lui demande
– D'être efficace c'est-à-dire de débarrasser la peau de toute trace d'impuretés et de maquillage. Mais elle n'élimine pas le maquillage waterproof.
– D'être douce et de ne pas décaper en assurant un bon glissant sur la peau tout en y déposant un voile hydratant protecteur.
– De laisser la peau fraîche, et d'être non comédogène, notamment quand on a une peau mixte ou à tendance grasse.

 


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